I at once drove over to Secunderabad, a very large British
cantonment and station. From here, missing the friends I had come to
see, and there being nothing to specially interest otherwise, I again
took train to Madras. A letter of introduction in my pocket to the
Nizam's Prime Minister might have been useful in seeing the city had I
presented it, but pressure of time induced me to push on; nor did I stop
in Madras longer than to allow of a drive round the city, the heat being
very great. Indeed, I was getting very tired of such hurried travel and
sight-seeing, and was longing for a week's rest and quietude in the cool
and pleasant highlands of Ceylon. My health also was now giving me some
concern; so on again to Madura, _en route_ to Tuticorin, from whence a
steamer would take me across to the land of spicy breezes. Madura has a
wonderful old temple of immense size, surrounded by gopuras of pyramidal
form, in whose construction huge stones of enormous dimensions were
utilized; the temple also has much fine carving, etc. The old palace is
of great beauty and interest.

Colombo was, as usual, uncomfortably warm; only on the seashore at Galle
Face could one get relief, and Galle Face with its excellent hotel is
certainly a very delightful place. I did not stay in Colombo, but at
once took train to visit Anauradapura and the dead cities of Ceylon.
Here was the heart of a district ten miles in diameter, practically
covered by the site and remains of the ancient city, which in its prime,
about the beginning of the Christian era, ranked with Babylon and
Nineveh in its dimensions, population and magnificence. Its walls
included an area of 260 square miles. Among its ruins the most notable
are the dagobas (pagodas), some of such enormous size that the number of
bricks used in their construction baffles conception. One of the dagobas
has a diameter of 327 feet and a height of 270. It is solidly built of
bricks, and contains material enough to build a complete modern town of
50,000 people. These Buddhist dagobas of Ceylon have the bell-shape
form, and serve the same purpose as the Shwe Dagon in Rangoon, viz., to
shelter relics of the Buddhas. Close by, within the walls of a Buddhist
temple, or monastery, still grows the famous Bo or Pipal tree, the
oldest living historical tree in the world, brought here 250
B.C. from Buddh Gaya in India. Only a fragment of the original
main trunk now exists, the various offshoots growing vigorously in the
surrounding compound, all still guarded and attended by the priests as
lovingly as when done 2200 years ago. At Anauradapura is a quite
charming little Rest House, shaded and surrounded by beautiful tropical
trees of great variety.

From here I went to Kandy, the former capital of the native kings of
that name. In the fourteenth century a temple was erected here to
contain a tooth of Buddha and other relics. Later, the temple was sacked
and the sacred tooth destroyed, but another to which was given similar
attributes was put in its place. Kandy is a pretty spot, with a good
hotel and agreeable climate, its elevation being 1800 feet above
sea-level. Near by is Paradenia and the beautiful Botanical Gardens, in
which it is a perfect delight to wander.

We had already passed through a most lovely and picturesque country; but
the grandest and most impressive scenery of Ceylon lies between Kandy
and Newara Elia. Tea-gardens extend everywhere, and the cosy,
neat-looking bungalows of the planters have a most attractive
appearance. Newara Elia stands very high, some 7000 feet. Its vegetation
is that of a temperate climate, and in the winter months the climate
itself is ideal. The bracing atmosphere suggests golf and all other
kinds of sport, and golfing there is of the very best kind. There is an
excellent hotel, though I myself put up at the Hill Club. All Ceylon is
beautiful, the roads are good, and many delightful excursions can be
made. I do not think I ever saw a more beautiful country. But the
sailing date draws near, so I must hurry down again to Colombo, and thus
practically complete my second tour round the world. A P. & O. steamer
brought us to Aden, the canal, Messina and Marseilles. We enjoyed lovely
cool and calm weather all the way till near the end, when off the
"balmy" coast of the Riviera we encountered bitter cold winds and stormy
seas. And so through France to England, to the best country of them all,
even though it be the land of coined currency bearing no testimony to
its value; where registered letters may be receipted for by others than
the addressee; and where butcher meat is freely exposed in the shops,
and even outside, to all the filth that flies--my last fling at the dear
old country.

Someone has asked me which was the most beautiful place I had ever seen?
It was impossible to answer. The whole world is beautiful! The barren
desert, the boundless ocean, the mountain region and the flat country,
even these monotonous Staked Plains of New Mexico, under storm or
sunshine, all equally compel us to admiration and wonderment.

In closing this somewhat higgledy-piggledy narrative, let me once more
express my hope that readers will have found in it some entertainment,
perhaps instruction, and possibly amusement.




APPENDIX


_Note I._--An outcry against Mormonism has been raised lately in this
country. It is its polygamous character that has been attacked. But does
polygamy deserve all that is said about it? It is not immoral and should
not be criminal. Compare it with the very vicious modern custom of
restricted families, which is immoral and should be criminal. Where is
our population going to come from? The Chinese, Japanese, Indians and
negroes are swarming all over the earth; while our race is almost
stagnant, yet owning and claiming continents and islands practically
unpeopled. Some day, possibly, polygamy will have to be permitted, even
by the most civilized of nations.

_Note II._--In this present year there is much writing and much talking
about arbitration treaties and preferential tariffs. A general
arbitration on _all_ matters between the United States and Great Britain
is probably quite impracticable. Preferential tariff within the Empire
would be highly advantageous to the Mother Country. If so, let us go for
it while the opportunity offers. But it does seem to me there is a
much-mistaken idea prevalent at home as to the loyalty of the Colonies
and Dominions. One travels for information and should be allowed to give
his conclusions. What holds these offshoots to the mother stem? Loyalty?
I think not. Simply the realization that they are not (not yet) strong
enough to stand alone: and it is the opinion of many that, as soon as
they are, loyalty will be thrown to the winds; and naturally! (Since
the above was written has it not been abundantly verified?) There is
also even a belief (the wish being father to the thought) that the
United States of America have a sentimental feeling for the Old Country;
and one frequently hears the platform or banquet stock phrase, "Blood is
thicker than water." It would be well if our people were enlightened
with the truth. After twenty-five years' residence in the United States
I will dare to say that the two nations are entirely foreign and
antagonistic one to another. And it is a fortunate thing that between
them few "Questions" remain to be arbitrated either by pen or sword. The
two peoples do not understand one another, and do not try to. The
ordinary English traveller does not meet or mix with the real American
people, who are rapidly developing a civilization entirely their own, in
social customs, in civil government, and even in fashions of dress.

_Note III._--Might a just comparison not be drawn between these "dogies"
and the type of men we now recruit for our standing Army? Are they not
dogies? Is it not a fact that many of them never had a square meal in
their lives! At least they look like it. But when taken up, if not while
yet babies at least when they are still at a critical age of
development, say eighteen years, and fed substantially and satisfyingly,
as is now done in the Army, what an almost miraculous physical change
takes place! And not only physical, but mental and moral, due to the
influence of discipline and athletic exercises. If such be the effect on
our few annual recruits, why not submit the whole young manhood of the
nation to such beneficial conditions by the introduction of compulsory
national military service? And not only that! Is not the private soldier
of this country, alone of all others, refused admission to certain
places of entertainment open to the public? Why? Because he is a
hireling. Because no man of character or independence will adopt such a
calling. He would degrade himself by doing so. But make the service
compulsory to all men, and at once the calling becomes an honourable
one. Can it be imagined for a moment that any of our raw recruits enter
the service from a love for King and country? No; they sell their
birthright for a red coat and a pittance, renounce their independence
and stultify the natural ambition that should stimulate every man worthy
of the name.

Though our men do not have the initiative and self-resource of the
Americans, still they are the smartest and best-set-up troops in the
world. Many of them are of splendid physique and look like they could go
anywhere and do anything. The whole world _was_ open to them; yet here
they still are in the ranks, dummies and automatons, devoid of ambition
and self-assertiveness.

Only national service will rid us of the army of unemployables. It will
develop them physically and mentally, and make men of them such as our
Colonies will be glad and proud to admit to citizenship.


  EDINBURGH
  COLSTONS LIMITED
  PRINTERS